The Yamagata landscape of Yuzhu Peak is ideal for beginners. The route of the south slope is clear and clear, and the technical requirements for climbing are low, but the height of the base camp is relatively high, with an altitude of 4,800 meters. The northern slope on the other side of the Yuzhu Peak is more complicated, and the three glaciers on the north side can board the Yuzhu Peak. On the way, you will encounter ice walls, ice cracks and other terrain. Therefore, the Yuzhu Peak is the best peak for mountaineering enthusiasts to climb the snow-capped mountains for the first time. On the southern slope, they have obtained high-altitude mountaineering experience while learning more ice-snow techniques and climbing tactics on the North Slope.
climate
The Yuzhufeng area is a continental climate with annual rainfall of only 200 mm. However, in high altitude areas above 5,000 meters above sea level, the high-altitude convective currents affect the rainfall more than a few hundred millimeters above the piedmont. The annual average temperature is minus 5 degrees, and the extreme minimum temperature can reach minus 30 degrees. In the mountaineering season, from May to September, the winds in May are relatively large, and in July and August there is more rain, so the best in June or August is the beginning of September.
South Slope Course
1990 Mountaineering Team of Peking University-Spine Route (S1): Base Camp climbs along the gravel slope of the southwestern ridge on the riverbank at the end of the main peak of the southwest glacier. The junction of the southwest ridge and the south slope of the main peak is the location of C1. About 5500 meters above sea level. Above C1 is a slope with an average slope of 35 degrees.
June 1999 Logan’s Guide to Mountaineering – South-South Slope to Southern Slope (S2): Base Camp Same as above, climbing along the gravel slope on the right side of the glacier, tying crampons up to the junction of rock and ice and continuing along the slope of the snow There is a small platform in the middle of a rocky ridge closest to the main peak, where C1 is built and is about 5,600 meters above sea level.
In May 1999, the Guizhou Youth Adventure Association - South-South Slope to Southern Slope Route (S3): The base camp was at the end of the glacier in the southeast of the main peak. Below C1, it needed to cross the crack area on the glacier.
In June 1999, Logi was engaged in the Mountaineering Guide Team: starting from Golmud, passing along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway passing Nachitai and West Grand Beach, passing the Kunlun Mountain Pass, left the Qinghai-Tibet Highway before the 2,900km milestone of the National Highway 109, and reached 10 kilometers along the simple highway to reach Jade. Mount Everest has a base of 4900 meters above sea level on the south slope. Jeep, trucks, China buses and even minibuses can all be directed to base camps.
North Slope Course
The 1997 Beijing Mountaineering Team: All three glaciers on the North Slope can reach the top of the Yuzhu Peak, and routes No. 2 (N1) and No. 3 (N2) (from east to west) are already on the route. The North Slope route is characterized by the inability to clear the summit route (more than 5,600 m of blockage) under the foot of a mountain; secondly, it is necessary to climb over other hills before reaching the summit. For example, on the route of the No. 2 glacier, 5819 and 5920 are to be crossed.
traffic
July-August 1997 Beijing University Mountaineering Team: Starting from Golmud, it passes along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and arrives at West Grand Beach via Nachi Station and then leaves the highway under the floodplain. The base camp flushes the ditch along the edge of the glacier and is about 6 kilometers from West Grand Beach. It is about 4,300 meters above sea level and can be reached by tractors, off-road jeep and trucks.
In June 1999, Logi was led by the Mountaineering Guide Team: Beijing-Lanzhou K75 train, driving at 15:08, and arrived at Lanzhou at 16:37 on the second day. If it is not later, it can catch the 17:22 train to Golmud. Fares: Beijing - Lanzhou, 380 yuan (sleeper); Lanzhou - Golmud, about 160 yuan (sleeper).
From Urumqi by car or plane to Aksu, and then north to Wensu, continue northbound to the tower along Luck, and then hike along the Qionglan River to the north, up to the south slope of the Tomur. The mountaineering base camp can be located at the end of the Tailan Glacier, 3,700 meters above sea level. The other route is to travel from Wensu to Dongcheng and then back on foot for 40 kilometers to Hebei, to Tu Gabie Lizi.
Climb the history
In August 1990, the climbing team of Peking University climbed along the southwest ridge route (S1);
In August 1997, the team of Peking University climbed along the No. 2 (N1) and No. 3 (N2) glaciers on the North Slope;
In May 1999, the Guizhou Youth Expedition Association climbed the south-easterly route to the south slope (S3);
In June 1999, Logi was ascended to the south slope (S2) on the southwest slope by the Mountain Guide.
In May 2000, a major mountain disaster occurred and five people died in two days.
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